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MUMBAI EXPRESS

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Our story

From a chai flask totwo kitchens

It started with a flask of chai and a folding table. Before there was a truck, before there were two kitchens, there was a Saturday morning, a batch of vada pav wrapped in newspaper, and the conviction that the Bay Area deserved the real thing.

The recipes came from a Girgaon kitchen: a batata bhaji that has not changed in three generations, garlic chutney pounded dry, pav from a bakery that still fires its ovens with wood.

Chapter one

Chapter one

A flask of chai and a folding table

The first customers were strangers who smelled frying besan from the car park. We poured them chai before they ordered anything, because that is what you do when someone stands at your window. They came back the next week with friends.

Within a year the folding table was a truck, parked on El Camino Real. The chai habit stayed.

Chapter two

Chapter two

Dadar, on a plate

Vada pav is a simple thing done exactly right or not at all. The potato is mashed while hot. The besan batter rests. The chutney is dry, red and fierce. The pav is warmed on the tawa in the same butter as the bhaji.

We serve it the way the stall outside Dadar station has since 1966: in paper, with a fried chilli, no cutlery.

Chapter three

Chapter three

Misal, the Kolhapur way

Kolhapur taught us heat is a seasoning, not a stunt. Our rassa is built on a masala roasted in small batches every morning, and it arrives in its own bowl so you decide how brave breakfast is going to be.

Chapter four

Chapter four

The truck, and the kitchen

Santa Clara is the truck: a covered patio, a queue that talks to itself, chai poured for whoever is waiting. San Jose is the kitchen: a cloud kitchen inside the downtown food hall, built for the catering orders that had started to outgrow a truck window.

Two very different rooms. One menu, one standard.

Chapter five

Chapter five

What we are building

Maharashtrian food is one of India's great cuisines and one of its least exported. We would like to change that, one vada pav at a time: a Marathi table in the South Bay where the food is taken as seriously as any tasting menu, and where a cutting chai is still a cutting chai.

How we cook

Three things we don't bend on

The benchmark

The dabbawalas, since 1890

Real history, and the reason our catering is built the way it is.

Mahadeo Havaji Bachche starts carrying home-cooked lunches to office workers in Bombay.

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